Irish Crochet Lace: A Short History and How It's Made

1910 Irish crochet lace collar pattern book

Irish crochet is one of the most beautiful lace techniques ever made with a crochet hook. Raised roses, shamrocks and leaves float on a fine mesh, and the result looks almost like needle lace. Here is where it came from and how it is built.

A short history

Irish crochet grew as a cottage industry in Ireland in the mid-1800s. It was developed as a faster, cheaper way to imitate expensive Venetian needle lace, and it became an important source of income for many families during and after the Great Famine.

By the early 1900s Irish crochet was highly fashionable. Collars, cuffs, yokes and blouses decorated with it appeared across Europe and America, and thread companies published pattern books to meet the demand. Two of those books are in our archive: the 1910 Buettner Irish Crochet Lace book and the D.M.C. Irish Crochet Lace album.

How Irish crochet is built

Unlike most crochet, Irish crochet is not worked in rows from one end to the other. It is built in stages:

  1. Motifs. Flowers, leaves, buds and sprays are crocheted one by one. Many are worked over a padding cord, which gives them their raised, sculpted look.
  2. Layout. The finished motifs are arranged on a paper or fabric pattern in the shape of the final piece, such as a collar.
  3. Filling. The gaps between motifs are filled with a mesh or "ground" of chain loops and picots, joining everything together.
  4. Finishing. An edging is added, and the piece is removed from its backing.

Typical motifs

  • Roses, often in several layers
  • Shamrocks and clover leaves
  • Leaves, wheels and rings
  • Grapes, buds and decorative sprays

Tips for a first project

  • Start with single motifs. Make a few roses and leaves before planning a whole collar.
  • Use a fine, smooth cotton thread and a steel hook that suits it.
  • Try a small piece such as a brooch, bookmark or applique before a larger lace panel.
  • Don't worry about perfection. Antique Irish crochet varies a lot from maker to maker.

Want all our Irish crochet books together? The Irish Crochet Pattern Bundle includes three antique books. Or browse the Irish crochet collection.

Frequently asked questions

What is Irish crochet lace?

Irish crochet is a lace technique from 19th-century Ireland. Raised motifs such as roses, shamrocks and leaves are crocheted separately and then joined with a mesh of chain loops and picots.

Is Irish crochet hard for beginners?

It is slower than ordinary crochet but not difficult. Start with single motifs such as a rose or a leaf, then make a small piece like a brooch or bookmark before a full collar.

What thread is used for Irish crochet?

A fine, smooth cotton crochet thread with a steel hook to match. Many antique pieces used very fine thread; size 20–40 is a comfortable modern starting point.