Hand embroidery is built from a surprisingly small set of stitches. Learn a handful well and you can work almost any vintage design. This guide draws on the 1915 textbook Elementary Embroidery by Mary Symonds, which taught embroidery as a step-by-step course.
Before you start
- Fabric: a medium-weight linen or cotton is easiest. Keep it taut in a hoop.
- Thread: stranded cotton (two or three strands) is the most flexible choice.
- Needle: a crewel (embroidery) needle with a long eye.
1. Running stitch
In and out along a line. It is the base for many other stitches and for outlining simple shapes.
2. Stem stitch (also called crewel stitch)
Small overlapping stitches that form a smooth, twisted line. It is the classic stitch for stems and flowing outlines in Victorian floral designs.
3. Chain stitch
A row of looped stitches like a little chain. It follows curves beautifully and can also be used in rows to fill a shape.
4. Satin stitch
Straight stitches laid closely side by side to fill a small shape, such as a petal or a letter. Keep the stitches parallel and do not pull too tight.
5. Long and short stitch (shading)
A filling stitch of alternating long and short stitches that lets you blend colours. It is used for realistic flowers and leaves.
6. French knot
Wrap the thread around the needle once or twice and take it back down close to where it came up. Perfect for flower centres and dots.
7. Bullion knot
A longer, coiled knot made by wrapping the thread many times around the needle. It makes tiny roses and textured details.
8. Couching
A thicker thread is laid on the surface and held down with small stitches in a finer thread. It was used for bold outlines and in goldwork.
Where these stitches take you
Once these eight feel comfortable, the rest of the 1915 course moves on to lettering, whitework, cutwork, crewel work and appliqué. Its 87 figures show each step clearly.
Practice on a real vintage design
A small floral spray is the perfect first project: stem stitch for the stems, satin or long and short stitch for the petals and French knots for the centres. You will find hundreds of sprays in the Briggs Victorian embroidery designs catalogue.
Explore all our vintage hand embroidery patterns.